Walking a River
…
and then we
turned under the lee of the ridge and out into the open stretch of the
valley.
It's always a
spectacular view and today we emerged into dramatic weather: iron-
grey
clouds were
louring on the distant mountains, sheets of rain were being driven by
the
wind
along the hills
on the far side of the valley. We descended the steep slope through
the
rain and I felt
completely at one with both the weather and the valley. As we
approached
the
stone circle, in
fact the eroded remains of a Bronze Age burial chamber, I reflected
how
little had changed
in this place in all the centuries during which that erosion had
taken
place. It
couldn't have looked very different then from now, the contours of
rock, the
slopes
covered in
remnant ancient oak woodland and the pasture above the gorge where
the
river runs through
a torrent, containing these stones in their lonely isolation with no
fence,
information
boards or access road apart from the indistinct footpath we were
following.
We looped down to the torrent
though dripping oaks and back up from the roaring waters
by another path,
emerging into fitful sunlight as the shower cleared and patches of blue
sky showed behind
clouds. Such days as these cement a relationship with a landscape, not
as something to be
looked at but as a place to be a part of, to live in, and to experience
in
every mood so that
there is no question of being put out by weather or changing
conditions any more or
less than with a partner's or friend's differing needs: you are there
for them and they for
you. So it is with these hills, these rivers, these woods and all the
weather gods that
express their changing moods here.
Then the next day I took a
newly-made footpath along the same river, but now I followed it
around the edge of the town where it meets the
sea. It is much wider here, flowing more
smoothly but with some swirls and eddies after the
heavy rain. As I reached the harbour and
watched the waters cascade for the last time down
through the stepped descent into the enclosed
haven where boats are moored away from
the crash of waves on the other side of the harbour wall,
I felt close to
this river as I
have to others. The waters that run over and through the earth in this
part of
the world run deep
within me as they do to the deeps of the sea.
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